We rode the canal boat again. But I was a little older and a little wiser this time. I did my research. Now, I knew how to ride the cheap boat that locals take, which is thirty cents, as opposed to ten dollars. I had been suckered by a tourist trap the first time, just like I’d suspected. Not this time. I also knew how to put up the plastic sheeting on the side of the boat to keep the canal spray out. When we got to our destination, I barely had any raw sewage on me at all. Movin’ on up in the world.
Our destination was Jim Thompson House. James Harrison Wilson Thompson was an American silk industry magnate who helped to revitalize Thailand’s silk trade, and preserve traditional Thai prints and techniques. He was a WWII spy who fell in love with Thailand on assignment here. After the war, he started a silk company, which gained fame when its fabrics were used to create the costumes for The King and I. With his wealth, he amassed an impressive collection of East Asian art (many pieces of which served as inspiration for his patterned silks), and built his “house on the Khlong” of Bangkok to store them in. When Thompson was 61, he mysteriously disappeared from the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. To this day, we have no idea what happened to him, and theories range from intentional disappearance, to abduction, to retribution for actions during WWII. Whatever happened to (or because of?) him, he left behind his house and its world-class collection of antiques and art pieces. The house was pieced together from six historical houses which he managed to bring to Bangkok by river from Ayutthaya. It’s an architectural marvel, combining traditional Thai structures with Western touches for convenience, and decor from all over Asia. It is also, now, one of the best museums in Thailand.
Tours are obligatory, but also very informative (for a change). Our guide provided historical details and interesting tidbits that really brought the place alive for me. I could imagine Jim Thompson and his famous American guests smoking in the parlor or dining at his Chinese table, looking out at his flourishing, jungly gardens. I also got a bit fascinated with his disappearance while we toured. I snuck glances at the Wikipedia article about it, whenever our guide wasn’t talking. I think there’s a novel to be written there. Who doesn’t love a good mystery?
After exploring the gardens on our own for a short bit after the tour, we headed to lunch at B-Story. It’s in the same shopping complex as Caturday, and also has a fun theme. In this case, it’s “Provençal rose conservatory” instead of “cats.” The whole restaurant looks like a Victorian greenhouse. It was a bit too fussy and feminine for my decor sensibilities, but it was a fun idea. Our macaroni and cheese was creamy without sacrificing tang or pungency, too. Plus, did I mention it was in the same complex as Caturday: The Cat Cafe?
Obviously, we had to check in on our friends, both feline and human, while we were in the neighborhood. The cafe workers were different this time, but still as helpful as the last bunch. The cats were the same, though we did get to spend a bit more time with some of the shyer ones. Aaron got petite, white-chinned, grey-furred, Phoebe to warm up to him, while I got to spend some quality time with Rocket, who has tufted ears and a long, lithe frame. We also got some great playtime in with Hip-Hop, the stumpy-legged, munchkin cat that seems to have his tongue stuck in the always out position. He looks like what we in the scientific community call a “doofus.”
After Caturday, we went back to Chern Hostel to rest, and after our rest, we walked to dinner at Chili Chill. Chili Chill is an Indian restaurant at the end of Bangkok’s backpacker row. It doesn’t look like more than a hole in the wall, but it served up some mighty fine vegetable pakora, butter masala paneer, and tandoori chicken. I was scraping the bowl. It was also a total bargain. Aaron and I are finding that you can eat cheap just as well as, if not better than, pricey in Bangkok.
We finished the night with a cocktail at Ku Bar. We took a few wrong turns, and ended up at a few wrong spots, before we finally noticed it’s entirely inconspicuous sign. I think this is intentional–it’s going for a speakeasy kind of vibe. It’s located at the top of some stairs, tucked in the corner of what appears to be an abandoned industrial building. Inside, the lights are low and the music is cool jazz. The bar is your basic high-end mixology kind of place–meaning it looks like a cross between an apothecary and a euro-lounge. Cocktails are expensive, but the price is fair for the craftsmanship and originality. Aaron and I only stayed for one, though, because we are on a budget.
Hanoimoon 